I know the Chronicle claimed they could not list a restaurant that “captured” the Mission, but merely two months ago they did just that:
Following are restaurants that capture the spirit of their locale:
Mission District
Range: Exceptional, frequently changing menu of New American food. Superb service and clever interior with intriguing use of industrial artifacts. 842 Valencia (near 20th Street); (415) 232-8283. Dinner nightly. (link)
Personally, I think that selection captures the driving force behind the Chronicle’s declining readership.
Not sure if if captures the Mission, but Range is absolutely fanfuckingtastic.
SF has set forth into the world many things, blue jeans, credit cards, micro beer, disgust with LA, and pisco punch to mention a few. The mission has given the world the mission burrito. Now it seems to me that a taqueria must rep the mission, but which one? The burrito wars, like the pizza wars, will never be resolved, everyone has their opinion. Even so you must consider the true original La Cumbre. It started something that has reached Berlin. It made it into the New Yorker. Joey Ramone liked it! Range maybe wonderful, but can’t you find similar places elsewhere?
DOn’t be getting me started on Range. The food is perfectly fine. The space is imperfectly skinny-jean tight, and the service has that certain Lufthansa ‘Helga she-wolf of the SS’ coldness that makes me pine for the day when lesbians had tattoos and Harley’s and attitude all wrapped around hearts as big as Montana.
There. That’s what I think about Range.
Does it represent the Mission. Sure. Just as much as any of us do. Just passin’ through.
Representin’
you say “Lufthansa ‘Helga she-wof of the SS’ coldness” like it’s a bad thing….
OF COURSE, Range would be at the top of the list for any discerning yuppie. Poverty sucks!